House Hunting Comparison Sheet

Score up to five homes side by side, grouped by what can and cannot be changed — plus a page per house of what to check while you are there.

Set up the comparison

Homes to compare
3
Five columns is about the limit before the sheet stops being readable.
Label the columns (optional)
A street name is easier to hold in your head than “Home 3”.
What to score
Everything is grouped on the printed sheet by how expensive it is to change.
52 lines

Score what cannot be changed, separately

The characteristic mistake in house hunting is not missing a defect. It is letting a new kitchen outweigh a flight path.

A flat scoring sheet encourages exactly that, because it adds a five for the worktops to a two for the commute and produces a number that looks objective. So this sheet scores in groups, and the groups are ordered by how permanent they are:

Cannot be changed — location, commute, noise, light, orientation, the ground, the lot, flood risk. Score these hardest, and score them before you have walked into the kitchen.

Expensive to change — layout, size, storage, roof, HVAC, windows, plumbing, electrical, foundation. Possible, but each of these is thousands of dollars and weeks of disruption.

Cheap to change — kitchen and bathroom fittings, floors, paint, appliances. These are the things that sell houses and they should be scored last and lightly.

Running costs — price, tax, insurance, utilities, fees, and the work needed in the first two years.

When the totals come out, the useful moment is not the winner. It is noticing that the house you liked came third on the group you cannot do anything about.

Fill it in on the driveway

Not that evening. On the driveway, before the next viewing.

By the fifth house in a day, people are reliably remembering house three through the impression left by house four, and the one with the smell of fresh coffee scores half a point higher than it should on everything. This is not a failure of concentration; it is how memory works under a sequence of similar experiences.

Two minutes in the car, per house, is worth more than any amount of trying harder to remember later.

Ten things to do while you are standing there

Most of these take seconds and none require permission:

  1. Run a tap and flush a toilet at the same time. Watch what happens to the pressure.
  2. Open and close every window and exterior door. Sticking windows tell you about the frame, the sashes or the movement of the building.
  3. Look at the electrical panel. Brand, amperage, whether every slot is full. A full panel means any addition needs an upgrade.
  4. Read the water heater’s age off its serial number. ENERGY STAR treats ten years as the point to plan a replacement, and a storage tank’s published life expectancy is around thirteen — so this one number tells you whether a replacement is in your first few years.
  5. Look at ceilings for stains and at corners for cracks, particularly above doorways.
  6. Look under every sink.
  7. Check the phone signal in each room.
  8. Stand outside and listen for a full minute. Noise is the single most under-noticed and most regretted factor in a purchase.
  9. Look at the neighbouring houses, their gardens and their cars.
  10. Note which way the back of the house faces. It determines the light in every room for as long as you live there.

What to ask before you offer

  • Twelve months of utility bills. The cheapest and most informative question you can ask. It tells you about the insulation, the windows and the running cost in a way no viewing will.
  • The age of the roof and the HVAC, and whether there is paperwork.
  • What work has been done, and was it permitted. Unpermitted work becomes your problem at resale and sometimes at insurance.
  • Why are you moving. Occasionally answered honestly, and always worth asking.
  • An insurance quote, before you offer rather than after. Flood zones, roof age, and claims history on the property can all move a premium enormously, and finding that out during closing is late.

A viewing is not an inspection

Nothing on this sheet is a substitute for a professional inspection, and it does not try to be.

A viewing decides whether to make an offer. An inspection decides whether to complete, and at what price. What a disciplined viewing actually does is save you the cost of inspecting houses you were never going to buy — which, at several hundred dollars each, is the real financial argument for a comparison sheet.

Go back at a different time of day before you offer. Traffic, light, noise and the character of a street all change between a Sunday afternoon viewing and a Tuesday at eight in the morning.

Frequently asked questions

What should I look for when viewing a house?

Start with what cannot be changed: the location, the commute at the real time of day, the noise, the light and which way it faces, the ground and where water goes. Those are the whole reason a comparison sheet is grouped rather than flat — a kitchen is a cheque and a weekend of research, and a flight path is permanent.

Why score by group instead of one total?

Because a flat score lets a new kitchen outweigh a bad location, which is exactly the mistake the sheet exists to prevent. Scoring the fixed things on their own means you can see when the house you liked scored worst on the things you cannot do anything about.

How many houses can I actually compare?

Five columns is about the readable limit on paper, and by the fifth viewing in a day most people are remembering house three through the feeling produced by house four. Filling the sheet in on the driveway, before the next one, is worth more than any amount of trying harder to remember.

What is worth checking while I am standing there?

Run a tap and flush a toilet at once and watch the pressure. Open every window. Read the age off the water heater’s serial number. Look at the electrical panel. Look at ceilings for stains and corners for cracks. Check the phone signal. Then stand outside and listen for a full minute — noise is the thing viewers most reliably fail to notice and most reliably regret.

What should I ask the seller?

Twelve months of utility bills, the age of the roof and the HVAC, what work has been done and whether it was permitted, and why they are moving. Utility bills in particular are a cheap question that tells you more about a house’s insulation and running cost than any survey you will get for free.

Is a viewing a substitute for an inspection?

No, and nothing on this sheet pretends to be. A viewing decides whether to make an offer; an inspection decides whether to complete. What a good viewing does is stop you paying for inspections on houses you were never going to buy.

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