Home Maintenance Checklist

A month-by-month maintenance calendar built for your house — your climate, its age, and only the systems you actually have.

Tell it about your house

What do you live in?
A condo drops everything to do with the roof, the gutters and the foundation.
Winters where you live
Cold means the ground freezes and you get snow most years.
Roughly when was it built?
Adds the checks that only matter for the materials used in that era.
What does the property have?
Only what you tick appears on the list.
Group it by
50 lines

Note: General guidance, not a substitute for your own equipment manuals. Where a manual gives an interval, it wins — it was written for the machine you own. (Checked 2026-09.)

How this list is built

Six answers change what comes out, and each one removes work rather than adding it.

What you live in is the biggest lever. A detached house owns its roof, its gutters, its foundation and the ground around it. A townhouse usually owns the roof and the exterior but not the grading. A condo owns none of it — so the list collapses to alarms, filters, drains, the dryer vent and the water under your own sinks. That is a genuinely short list, and it is the one that is actually yours.

Your winters decide whether the year has a freeze-protection season at all. Cold climates get spigot shutoffs in October, split-pipe checks in March, ice dam watching in January and an ice melt run in November. Hot and humid climates get none of that and gain condensation and ventilation checks instead.

When it was built adds the checks that only make sense for the materials of that era — lead paint, galvanized supply lines, certain electrical panels, polybutylene plumbing. These appear once a year, not because they are urgent, but because they are worth identifying deliberately rather than during a failure.

What the property has is the longest lever. Every item you leave unticked removes its tasks entirely. No fireplace means no chimney sweep. No basement means no sump pump test and no radon retest. No lawn means no aeration.

Then it prints from the current month rather than from January, because a schedule that starts eight months ago is a schedule you have to reformat in your head before you can use it.

What actually matters most

If you do three things and ignore the rest of this page:

  1. Test the alarms. Smoke and carbon monoxide, monthly, with the button — CPSC asks for a monthly test and an annual battery change. Replace a smoke alarm over ten years old. A CO alarm’s replacement age is set by its manufacturer rather than by a single figure, so read it off the unit; the sensor ages whether or not the battery is fresh.
  2. Keep water away from the foundation. Clean gutters, downspouts discharging four to six feet out, ground sloping away from the wall. Almost every expensive structural problem in a house starts as water that was allowed to sit against it.
  3. Change the HVAC filter. A choked filter makes the most expensive appliance in the house work harder for less output, and it does that quietly for years.

Everything else on the list is worth doing. Those three are the ones where skipping has consequences that are not proportional to the effort saved.

The intervals, and where they disagree

Published maintenance intervals are less settled than they look. The three worth knowing about:

Item Common advice What it actually depends on
HVAC filter 1–3 months Filter thickness, pets, occupancy, whether the fan runs continuously. Look at the filter.
Water heater flush Annually Water hardness. Soft water areas can go longer; hard water areas may need it twice.
Septic pumping 3–5 years Tank size and household size. A four-person house on a small tank is at the short end.
Chimney Annual inspection Standard for anything you burn wood in. Sweeping frequency depends on how much you burn and how well it burns.
Dryer vent About yearly No standard sets this. Duct length and bends decide it — clean it whenever loads start taking longer than they used to.

Where your appliance manual gives a number, use that one. It was written for the machine you own; this page was not.

The two-minute version

Most of what fails expensively announces itself first, and the announcement is visible from standing height:

  • Granules in the downspout splash block. The shingles are shedding their surface. Not urgent, but the roof is now on a clock.
  • A stain on a ceiling that was not there last month. Something above it is wet. It will not dry itself.
  • A door that suddenly sticks. Something moved — humidity, or the framing. Note when it started.
  • A drop in water pressure at one fixture. Usually an aerator. If it is the whole house, it is not.
  • A musty smell in a room you rarely enter. Trust it. Smell detects damp long before you can see it.

None of these are on the monthly list because you cannot schedule noticing. But if you see one, that month’s list can wait.

What this deliberately leaves out

Anything that requires being on the roof. Roof inspection here means from the ground with binoculars. Falls are the leading cause of death in residential construction, and a homeowner on a ladder in October has none of the training or equipment that makes it survivable.

Anything gas-fitted. The furnace service and the heat exchanger check are on the list as have it serviced, not as tasks. Combustion appliances are the one category where a confident amateur is more dangerous than a neglectful one.

Cosmetic work. Painting, refinishing and landscaping are projects, not maintenance, and putting them on a maintenance schedule is how a schedule becomes something you stop reading.

Anything on a schedule shorter than a month. Nobody keeps a weekly maintenance list. The things that genuinely need weekly attention — watering, filters on a pool — belong to the equipment that needs them, not to a printed sheet.

A schedule is not a to-do list. If a month comes and you do three of its eight lines, you are ahead of where you would be with no list at all. The point is that nothing goes unexamined for years, not that every box gets ticked.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I change my furnace filter?

Look at the filter rather than the calendar. A one-inch pleated filter in a house with pets or a dusty street is usually grey within a month; the same filter in a quiet, empty house can go three. Four- and five-inch media filters are built for six months to a year. Filter manufacturers publish shorter intervals than HVAC technicians recommend, which is worth knowing when you read a box.

What maintenance actually matters if I only do a few things?

Test the smoke and carbon monoxide alarms, keep water away from the foundation, and change the HVAC filter. Those three cover the failure that kills people, the failure that costs the most to repair, and the failure that quietly wrecks the most expensive appliance in the house. Everything else on this list is worth doing, but those are the three that are not optional.

I rent, or I live in a condo. Is any of this mine to do?

Set the property type to condo or apartment and the list drops the roof, the gutters, the foundation and the exterior — the things a building or a landlord handles. What is left is genuinely yours: alarms, filters, the dryer vent, the water under your sinks, and the drain traps. That is a short list, and it is the one worth having.

Why does the list change when I say the house is older?

Because era determines materials. Houses built before 1978 are assumed to have lead paint under later coats, which changes how you sand anything. Pre-1980 houses may have galvanized supply lines or a panel brand with a known failure history. Houses built between roughly 1978 and 1995 may have polybutylene plumbing. None of these are emergencies, but each is something to identify once rather than discover during a failure.

How much should I budget for home maintenance in a year?

The rules of thumb are one percent of the house value per year, or a dollar per square foot per year. Both are rough and both understate it for an older house or a harsh climate. The value of a schedule is not that it avoids the cost — it is that it converts an unplanned five-thousand-dollar failure into a planned three-hundred-dollar service call.

Can I print this and put it on the fridge?

That is what it is for. The PDF prints on US Letter with a checkbox on every line, and the page address is in the footer so whoever picks it up can rebuild it. If you would rather not download a file, the Print button produces the same document straight from the browser.

Related printables

Work out the quantities first

On squarefootcalcs.com (opens in a new tab), a sister site — same jobs, from the buying-materials end.